Lawn removal options
Sheet mulching / lasagna method
Solarization method
Physical removal
Soil amendments
Simply put, a soil amendment is something added to your base soil to improve its quality. In general, improving soil means increasing the organic matter in the soil that’s available for the plants and balancing the air and water flow. The most common type of soil in our gardens along the Front Range is clay. Clay consists of very fine particles that hold a lot of water but don’t allow for a lot of airflow. Improving this soil typically involves improving the drainage.
Types of soil amendments
To start, you have the option to test your soil with CSU extension but:
- The results can take a long time to get back to you in the busy season and they can be difficult to interpret
- It’s pretty easy to tell if you have hard-packed clay soil. Take a shovel and dig into the space to test this out
Organic
Compost, compost, compost! The most common organic soil amendment Compost adds both more organic material for the plants and improves the drainage. The simplest way to add compost for a small sized garden area is to add compost as you’re planting and digging holes for your plants. When digging your planting hole (the same depth as and twice as wide as the plant), take this soil you’ve dug up and and 1/3 compost to your 2/3 “native” soil. Then, mix this together and use this new mixture to fill the planting hole.
Compost tea is another great organic soil amendment. Ecocyle (located in the same lot as Resource Central’s very own Reuse Facility at 6400 Arapahoe Rd. in Boulder) has their own product called Microbe Brew tea.
Inorganic
Another option for amendment is inorganic material, most often small rock called squeegee which is smaller than pea gravel. Garden In A Box plants and any other, low-water plants adapted to our climate in Colorado benefit from well-draining soil and don’t need as much organic material as other plants. Inorganic rock mulch is a great option for this type of garden because it allows all of the water added to the garden to get to the plant roots, whereas organic material will soak up some of that water.
To learn more about best practices for planting low-water or xeric plants, check out Denver Botanic Gardens’ Western Best Practices Guide.
To use or not use landscape fabric?
Our recommendation here is as easy (and free) as can be. We do not recommend using weed fabric aka landscape fabric, weed tarp. Here are our reasons:
- Weed seeds are strong, pioneering, and will grow in ANYTHING. Using weed fabric may delay the growth of weeds for a couple of years but eventually they will grow on top of and between the weed fabric. This makes weeding way harder than it is without the fabric.
- If you’re using organic matter to amend your soil weed fabric will prevent the mulch from breaking down and adding those wanted organic goods into the soil. It also makes it harder for water to get down to where you want it to go; the plant roots, not running down the weed fabric like a slip ‘n’ slide.
- After a few years, weed fabric is a huge pain to try and remove. If you want to add or move any plants, trust us, you’ll wish you hadn’t added that pesky weed fabric.
Mulch
Mulch is a protective layer put on top of bare soil. Soil amendments or improvements (as discussed above) on the other hand are incorporated into the top few inches of soil with the intention of improving soil quality. Mulching is not some new landscaping concept. Mulching is actually mimicking the natural process of an ecosystem’s lifecycle. Plants die back or drop foliage in fall and this plant matter decomposes over the winter providing much-needed nutrients to the plants again come spring. Mulching is natural and necessary for healthy soils.
Just like with your soil amendment options, you have two common options for mulch: organic or inorganic. Organic mulches include wood chips, bark, straw, grass clippings, leaves, pine needles,or even dead weeds. Inorganic mulches are usually some sort of rock layer or even plastics.
Why mulch at all
Suppressed weeds
by blocking the light that would directly hit the soil surface, where many weed seeds live
Reduces evapotranspiration
More of the water applied to plants gets to the plants rather than evaporating
Reduces soil
temperature variations
It keeps the soil underneath cooler in summer and warmer in winter, helping to protect plant roots
Controls erosion
by helping keep soil in place
Improves
drainage
of water from the soil
surface to plant roots
Adds texture and
improves aesthetics
Helps build organic
content in soil
if using organic mulch
Mulch options
| WOOD OR BARK MULCH (ORGANIC) | ROCK MULCH (INORGANIC) | |
| Different types | • Wood chips: There are large and small wood chip varieties.
• Shredded tree bark: Helpful in windy locations as it knits together into a thick mat. | • Squeegee (1/4" diameter): Finer texture & preferred above pea gravel • Pea gravel (3/8" - 5/8" diameter): Actually small, smooth river rock |
| How much to apply | • Large chip: 3-4" deep
• Small chip: 1-2" deep | • 2-3" deep for both types above |
| Maintenance | • Reapply every 2-3 years, as needed | • Rake stone areas especially if in pathways to maintain even surface |
| Best used for | • Around trees and shrubs
• Best for medium to high water need perennials or annuals • Part shade locations | • Desert, rock or alpine style gardens
• Low water gardens, native plant gardens • Dry, hot and sunny locations |
| Pros | • Improves soil health and quality with decomposition
• Readily available and even free sources • There are many types of wood or bark mulches at a variety of prices | • Does not float or blow away
• Does not need replenshing • Initial cost similar to mulch but does not need replenishing so cheaper option all said and done |
| Cons | • Can float or blow away
• Needs replenishing year to year | • Heavier, thus harder to handle in large quantities
• Does not add to organic content of soil |
| Warnings | • Leave 6" free of mulch around all plants to prevent rot, fungi, disease and pests
• Do not use a weed barrier between the soil and the mulch, instead apply 3-4" of mulch to act as the weed barrier! | • Grade away from pathways, pavers, driveways, or sidewalks to reduce slipping hazards.
• You can use borders or larger rock barriers to keep finer rock in place. • Do not use rock mulch up against the house in very sunny locations. |
Irrigation system setup
Drip Irrigation Conversion
If you determine during the planning phase that you need to convert your existing overhead spray irrigation system to a drip system this section will provide steps on how to complete that conversion. Read on below!
If you have an existing system but don’t feel ready just yet to work out the irrigation system conversion OR you don’t have an existing irrigation system, you can certainly water by hand.
- You’ll want to follow the same idea behind watering your lawn efficiently called “cycle and soak” which means when overhead watering, it’s better to water our clay soils in small doses, frequently, as opposed to a ton of water once every week.
- Additionally, as with any watering system you choose, your watering should decrease as time goes on, and especially from year to year.
For more information on long-term watering expectations, jump ahead to Watering Tips & Irrigation Troubleshooting [jump to that section].
- If you do have a system in place, you’ll still want to cap off the full zone that you’re converting. Take a look at a video on capping off sprinkler heads here.
Thornton water conservation
“Converting Your Sprinkler to a Drip Zone – An H2Overhaul Production”
Sprinkler warehouse
“Rain Bird Pop-up Sprinkler to Drip Conversion”
Basic steps of converting a spray irrigation system to a drip system
Depending on your existing irrigation system (or lack thereof), what you’re watering, and your budget, there are various irrigation options to choose from. Here we’ll introduce 4 main types of drip irrigation, their recommended uses, and then go into detail on how to install them.
Soaker hose
Point source drip
Micro spray emitters
Netafim or
pre-punctured drip line
The four main types of irrigation
Soaker hose
Point source drip
Micro spray emitters
Netafim or pre-punctured drip line
Planting
*Before you do any digging be sure to call 811 to note any utility lines to avoid. At this point, please be sure to have noted all of your own sprinkler lines as well!
Planting Perennials
Plan
Lay out your plants in the planting area. Reminder that all Garden In A Box kits come with plant by number maps to help with this! Plan for the fully mature size of the plants. If the planting maps do not work for your desired space or you’ve purchased your own groups of plants, take the mature height and spread into account to ensure proper spacing.
Plant
Plant in the morning or evening when temperatures are cool. Dig holes the same depth and 2x the diameter of the plant container. Hold the plant sideways and gently squeeze the pot to release the plant. Carefully loosen the plant’s root ball to encourage growth down and outward. If you have not already amended your soil, do so now! Place the plant in the hole, fill about 1/3 of the way with the soil mixture, and top it off with water. Fill the remainder of the hole to the base of the plant with soil, and water thoroughly.
Protect
Now, it’s time to mulch! Mulching is essential; it minimizes moisture evaporation and reduces weeds. You can either use a wood mulch or rock mulch like pea gravel or squeegee. Follow the recommended depth listed in the Mulch section. If using wood mulch, keep a 6" area around the base of each plant free of mulch to prevent rotting at the base. Finally, give your plants a thorough watering. Great job on planting your garden!
Planting native grasses
Native grass selection
Whether used as striking individual specimens or grouped together for ornamental beauty, bunchgrasses offer a range of aesthetic possibilities. Opt for sod-forming grasses to create a low-maintenance turf, delivering savings in mowing, fertilizing, and irrigation.
Looking for more options? Check out CSU extensions native grasses list
Application of native grass
For a successful installation, start by clearing existing weeds and grass. The optimal planting window is from June 1 to August 15, ensuring the grasses are at their most active. Overseeding existing grass, weeds, or bare ground is not recommended for success. Depending on the condition of the existing grass, either mow short, core aerate, and plant into dead grass if it’s growing well, or opt for lawn removal and rototilling if it’s not thriving. Rototilling helps break up soil compaction, and mixing dead weeds and grass with the soil is advised for optimal results. Smooth the soil surface, fine-tune the final soil grade, and roll to create a firm seedbed if necessary. As native grass sod is challenging to transport, expensive, and difficult to find, seed varieties of turf grass cultivars are considered best for residential purposes.
Seeding
For successful seeding, evenly spread the seed into the soil and carefully rake it in. Ensure regular watering throughout two growing seasons to establish the seeds, and adjust the watering regimen based on their needs thereafter. Promote rapid growth by fertilizing with standard lawn fertilizer at half the recommended rate, applied up to once per week. For weed control it is recommended to hand pull and manually remove weeds in your yard.
In long-term maintenance, fertilize once per year with 1 lb of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Water once the grass greens up in May, providing one half-inch of water every 7-14 days; winter watering is not required. Mow when the grass reaches 3+ inches tall, typically in February to remove dead material, with only 1-4 mowings needed throughout the year. Be cautious with blue grama, as frequent mowing and excessive watering may lead to increased weed growth.